Wednesday, December 28, 2011

The larger crown at 2 o'clock is for the time

At first we just knew the name of the watch as the 4000m Diver, until the Oceanographic part of the name was designated later on. It comes from an aquarium in Monaco (do they have one of everything in Monaco?) called the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco - and Hublot partnered with them for the watch. Was the partnership necessary? Not really, but Mr. Biver does like a nice party and partnership to go with almost each new watch the brand releases. It is fun enough. I wonder if they sell the watch in the gift shop next to the stuffed seals and plush crustaceans.

Right now the Oceanographic 4000 (4000m) watch comes in two limited edition variants. First is the titanium model that is limited to 1000 pieces, and then there is the all-black carbon fiber model that is limited to 500 pieces. The King Power style case is 48mm wide and really thick - still comfy though to be quite honest given the light weight. It has a sapphire crystal that is 6.5mm thick, a helium escape valve, and 4000 meters of water resistance. According to some additional information, another test seems to suggest that the watch is water resistant to 5000 meters. Which is it? Doesn't matter to be honest - you'd be dead long before reaching either of those depths.

Still, the carbon fiber model speaks to me a lot more. I am actually not a big fan of all those black on black watches. Mr. Biver calls the look "visible invisibility." The titanium and green model looks a bit like a toy to me. I mean, it is toy. Maybe a serious toy, but still a toy. This is another watch that I call "Hollywood movie prop." Pick your fav sci-fi or action movie and I bet this watch will look appropriate on some character. The carbon fiber one is a bit more mysterious and sinister. It also has the benefit of being the only carbon fiber cases dive timepiece that I know of - and that is pretty cool. I am pretty hot on the idea of carbon fiber cases. I was very skeptical about them at first, but brands like Hublot have convinced me that they are worthy. In addition to being light and having a smooth feel to them, they are really tough and naturally absorb shock.

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 M Diver Hands-On

Back in January of 2011 I caught a glimpse of a early prototype version of a strange looking Hublot. The case was really big (by Hublot standards), and it has a sci-fi looking black and green dial. I also noticed a large closing cap over one of the crows, and a beefy stance that made me wonder if it was even a real watch. This later turned about to be the Hublot Oceanographic 4000m (4000 M) Diver watch, but I didn't learn that for a few more months. After some time reflecting on the piece, I now reflect on this 'Uber-blot' watch.

No modern brand really needs an excuse to create a diver's watch. Such models are 'expected' parts of a well-rounded range of pieces in any brand's collection. Of course you need a diver. Though it looks a lot better when you do have a reason to create one, or least you can think of a reason. I don't know how long Hublot has been planning on making a diver, but I suspect it has been for a few years. The big question was probably "If Hublot makes a dive watch, how can we really make it an Hublot?" Extremism was one option. Make it the "most this" or the "least that." Though the specifications of existing watches and other dive watch records out there were already really impressive. Previous dive watches that were released can survive really deep depths, and can get very large in size. With Biver's "fusion" philosophy there was the opportunity to make a dive watch using interesting materials. Carbon was one logical option, and something that in fact Hublot used. I think however that Hublot struggled for a while with the idea of how to make their dive watch unique.

Actually, let me back up a bit. The Oceanographic 4000m Diver is not Hublot's first dive watch by any means. Hublot was making dive style watches since before Jean-Claude Biver was around, and Big Bang King (not to be confused with the King Power) has a range of dive style pieces in cool colors with a rotating diver's bezel and 300 meters of water resistance. The Oceanographic however would be the brands first "serious" diving timepiece, and would have a distinct Hublotistic statement to it.

Hublot US Liberty Bang Limited Edition Watch

Is this the week of American themed watches or what? Just a few days ago I discussed the Perrelet Turbine XL America, that was a bit of a polarizing piece. Now I present to the Swiss Hublot US Liberty Bang - one of Hublot's latest limited edition Big Bang watches. This watch was unveiled recently in Philadelphia of all places - during the annual award ceremony where the Constitution Center (a non-government organization) gave out its annual Liberty Medal award.

The watch will be exclusively available in the US (duh) and limited to just 100 pieces. The dial of the 45mm wide Big Bang watch has a US flag motif made up of text. That text begins with the preamble of the US Constitution followed by other that as far as I know is not in the Constitution I read. Seems like descriptive text talking about the founding fathers, etc... Still pretty cool. It is interesting from a poetic standpoint to have the flag made up of words, as powerful words were really what we study when discussing the history of the US and its formation. The watch case is in black ceramic and priced at $11,900.

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Is A Re-Imagined Greek Masterpiece

Not long ago Mathias was finally able to complete the Antikythera, miniaturizing the concept of the original into a wrist watch. And only Buttet's version actually tells the time and has a tourbillon. The man just LOVES tourbillons. It also runs by itself whereas the original needed to be hand-cranked. Hublot announced that no Antikythera movements will ever be sold. They anticipate making 3-4 of them and selling them (via auction) for charity. The sale of which I believe will benefit the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris (a really cool museum that focuses on the history of machines).

So it took a long time and isn't going to make Hublot any money. Why do all this then? According to Jean-Claude Biver he (and Hublot) are a supporter of the arts, advancing technology, and using their talents to assist where possible. In fact, study of the Antikythera is one place where their talents are particularly useful.

The device itself has a modern history starting in about 1900 when it was discovered in a sunken ship off the coast of an island called Antikythera. That is where the name of the device came from. In the ship were a series of ancient Greek treasures, and well as the mechanical device. It was badly rusted from being underwater for so long. Estimates are that the ship sank between 80-60 BC. The device is carbon dated to being older than that.

Hublot Antikythera Calibre 2033-CH01 Watch

One of the things I really appreciate about Hublot is that they don't do everything directly to sell watches. A lot of their events and projects are for charity or to further development in the horological world. Yes of course there is a branding element to each of these projects and it gets people write about the brand that might not otherwise cover a wrist watch story, but in the end it makes for a very dynamic Hublot.

I recently joined Hublot for the official unveiling of the Antikythera movement that Mathias Buttet worked on making for the last several years. In French they call it the Anticythère, and the movement reference is the Calibre 2033-CH01. Lets start with some history, both recent and ancient.

Before being at Hublot Mathias Buttet ran BNB Concept. When the economic crisis hit and BNB Concept went out of business, Hublot (a large customer of theirs) bought up much of their resources and hired Mathias. While still at BNB he was working on the replication (not exact in terms of shape, but in terms of function) of something that was known as the Antikythera. The project was never completed and when Jean-Claude Biver hired him, he made promises to Mathias that he could still pursue certain pet projects such as this. Mathias was happy to inform me recently (as he has a few times actually) that Jean-Claude has kept his promises.

Hublot Is Official Watch Maker & Timekeeper Of Ferrari

Hublot announced today that they have partnered with Ferrari to become (among other things) their official watch maker and official time keeper. This means that during their agreement only Hublot can produce Ferrari branded timepieces. Hublot will also be a branded partner during Ferrari events (and likely the Ferrari name will be displayed at many Hublot events). They refer to this as a "comprehensive agreement covering all the activities of Ferrari and Hublot..." I know, a bit vague, but I think we get the idea.

Ferrari has had an interesting history with watches. For a long time there were a range of lower-priced quartz watches. Then they worked with high-end brand Girard-Perregaux for some nice watches. After that they entered into what most people generally agree was a failed relationship with Panerai. After that Cabestan produced some very interesting highly limited Ferrari timepieces. There might be even more history that I am not considering. Starting today it is all about Ferrari and Hublot exclusively. With Hublot's strong track record being the official watch maker for Formula 1, they were probably able to show Ferrari all the highly marketable high-end pieces that they can produce. I anticipate some cool watches and events moving forward.

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Hublot La Cle Du Temps Watch Hands-On

Does the key of time hold the key to time? Depends on how you look at it. A few years ago Mathias Buttet created a weird watch movement capable of speeding up and slowing down time, and then automatically return the dial to the normal time. Poetically the movement had a lot of value, though practically it had next to none. What it did however do was offer a unique design opportunity to see how one might create a timepiece around this concept. This is the third try.

The first watch to use this complex vertical tourbillon based movement was a company called Horus that made a boat style watch out of it called the Ultramarinum. I believe Horus is now defunct. Then Mathias decided to use the movement in one of his own watches for the BNB Confrerie Horlogerie in a watch called the La Clef (with an "f") du Temps. I actually got to play with this incredible odd watch hands-on for myself. Mathias explained to me that it was designed using the look of the movie character Predator's head. Fair enough. BNB is not defunct. Mr. Buttet with his risk taking and creativity is now at Hublot running the movement making and designing arm. With Mr. Biver's guidance and the Hublot DNA, I think that Mathias finally found his groove.

Early this year I wrote about this watch that now has the name of the Hublot Confrerie La Cle du Temps - and now I offer you a hands-on experience of an almost ready for production model of the watch. Priced at over $300,000 this isn't a watch that is made to make money. It is make as a concept, a passion play of design and movement making designed to stimulate the imagination and offer Hublot a creative outlet. With pieces such as this coming from Hublot on a regular basis, they are more or less the premiere brand right now that is releasing experimental futuristic designs and movements. Chalk up to a Biver + Buttet power relationship.

Hublot Big Bang Chrono Tourbillon Ferrari Watch

It's here. This is the first Ferrari branded Hublot timepiece to come out of the two brand's joint partnership. Unveiled in China, the watch called the Hublot Big Bang Chrono Tourbillon Ferrari is meant to celebrate the quizzically celebration-worthy 20th anniversary of the first Ferrari car sold in China. I don't even think the dealerships there knew about that.

Limited to just 20 pieces the watch (ref. 308.QX.1110.HR.SCF11) will be offered in a 44mm wide all carbon fiber case with red tinted sapphire crystal. See the Ferrari logo as part of the chronograph subdial. The movement is the Hublot caliber 6300 column-wheel chronograph with tourbillon and power reserve. You can see the full tech specs below. Hublot considers this as a bit of a preview for a larger Ferrari watch collection from the brand that will debut at Baselworld 2012.

Clasp Big Bang micro-blasted black PVD titanium deployant buckle, micro-blasted black PVD titanium cap, micro-blasted black ceramic decorative plate, black ink engraving and polished black PVD screws

Hublot Big Bang Watch For Architect Oscar Niemeyer

In case you've ever wondered what an Hublot watch would look like on a 104 year old man, this is it. This chap is famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer and he has been fortunate to not only live a very long time, but also have a very accomplished career behind him. For us Americans, he most notably architected the United Nations building in New York City.

Hublot now honors him with a watch. See a video that Hublot made presenting the watch to him here. Actually, Hublot has a dual reason for making this watch. The piece is also in honor of Brazil - a country Hublot has been keen to keep popularity high with. And why Brazil now? Well the FIFA World Cup for 2014 is coming to Brasilia, Brazil and Hublot also happens to have a relationship the kings of soccer.

My interest is more with Niemeyer however. I still think it is very interesting to see him wearing a futuristic Big Bang Aero Bang watch in tantalum with a dial in black accented with the yellow and green colors of the Brazilian flag. Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot is very open with the type of advertising and marketing that he is willing to experiment with. Most brands would probably not do this, but I applaud Hublot for doing so. I have a feeling Oscar never saw this coming. 30 years ago I am sure he would have been thrilled to get a limited edition watch in his honor. Today I am happy he is still alive. I think all very senior citizens should get cool looking futuristic watches. Timex, get some special modern versions of the Easy Reader out there OK?

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Hublot Bling Evolution: Diamonds On A Big Bang Watch

Years ago when the first Hublot Big Bang came out it was an interesting watch to most people. It had an aggressive military and industrial sensibility to it that so many men enjoyed back then, and still enjoy today. Not everyone is in love with Hublot watches, but most tend to agree that the Big Bang was a solid design. So solid that for a long time Hublot became typecast as a firm making only Big Bang watches. That is until a few years ago when watches like the King Power and others came along to fill in the product line a bit more.

Going back to the Big Bang I thought it would be interesting to explore the "jewelry-ification" of the piece. From the original masculine design to pieces completely covered in diamonds, it is fascinating to see how the core design has held up to being studded in diamonds. The newest diamond-dressed Big Bang watch is called the Hublot Baby Million (though I am not sure what is so "baby" about it). It is a $302,000 priced piece with 28 carats of diamonds on it. Here it is the first shown watch in this article and prompted this discussion. Why? Well because in addition to being almost totally covered in diamonds, the core Hublot Big Bang design is preserved on the dial and case - despite the 891 diamonds all over the timepiece. That wasn't simple - to make a haute joaillerie Big Bang still look like a Big Bang watch.

A million bucks isn't the highest amount Hublot has asked for a Big Bang watch. There have been a few such "million" (I am not even sure of the currencies sometimes) Big Bangs up to the 3 million dollar version with a tourbillon. What I like is how each of these is actually set differently with stones. These are also among the few men's watches with diamonds that I think I could pull off wearing. Of course that statement is almost entirely fantasy because the prices are outrageous, but you get the idea. I tend to think of diamond studded watches as being primarily feminine. Though the right guy (Elton John) call pull it off.

This number indicates the percentage of actual gold

Pure ceramic cases range in strength as measured on the Vickers scale. As Magic Gold does contain a lot of gold, it is not going to be as tough as the strongest ceramic materials, but it will be much tougher than regular gold. According to Hublot, normal 18k gold is about 400 Vickers in strength. Good steel is about 600 Vickers, and Magic Gold is about 1000 Vickers. Most pure ceramic cases range from about 1,200 - 2,000 Vickers but can max out at 10,000 Vickers. The bottom line is that Magic Gold is more scratch resistant than steel and more than twice as scratch resistant at standard 18k gold. That little fact alone should appeal to a lot of consumers interested in a gold watch because it means that their investment will remain cosmetically pleasing for much longer.

I have to say that when I first heard about this new development from Hublot a few months ago I was pretty excited. This isn't a design gimmick or some hyped partnership. This is a cool new material that has a desirable and useful use in the market. With ceramic more and more being the luxury material of course I like the idea that brands are vetted to making high-end watches that are built to last. Nothing is more painful than putting in a lot of money into a watch, and then having it show cosmetic wear too fast. Also note the Chanel J12 Chromatic watch that makes use of ceramic material with lots of titanium in it (hard and very light).

In 2012 at Baselworld Hublot will be releasing a new collection of watches that utilize Magic Gold. I don't know how much it will cost compared to standard 18k gold, and whether or not Hublot will be replacing all of its current gold watches with Magic gold. I anticipate that it will have a premium associated with it for at least a few years. Wait until closer to March 2012 for more Hublot Magic Gold watch products.

Hublot To Offer Scratch Resistant “Magic Gold” Watches

Hublot will be adding a new material to its "art of fusion" parts bin which they call "Magic Gold." Magic gold is a special 18k gold and ceramic alloy which offers the look and feel of 18k gold with the incredibly high scratch resistance of ceramic materials. Many people who currently own gold watches will likely be very excited about this.

Gold is an incredibly popular material for high-end watches marred only by its softness (and perhaps price these days). Watch cases in gold are already not pure gold in order for them to have a slightly tougher alloy. But anyone who has worn an 18k gold watch will testify that the material picks up nicks and scratches with incredible ease.

18k gold often has a little "750" stamped in it. This number indicates the percentage of actual gold per 1000 parts in the material. For gold to be 18k it must be 750 parts per 1000 as I understand it. It is logical to ask whether or not magic gold meets this number or is less given the ceramic compounds. According to Hublot, Magic Gold has the same 750 parts per 1000 of gold as 18k gold - thus making it at least as valuable at 18k gold (with the the scratch resistance).

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Star Wars Darth Vader Costume On Sale: What Watch Would He Wear

Star Wars lore seems to indicate that some who are strong in the force can see into the future to an extent. Does this mean they inherently know what time it is? Darth Vader does not wear a watch, though his suit might tell him what time it is. This very cool Darth Vader costume is on sale right now on Buy.com (pictured, click to go to product page). The costume is not cheap as far as Halloween costumes go, but it is high quality, and suitable for many occasions whether you are scaring little kids or participating in a fan event. You get the cape, jump suit, helmet, and rugged injection molded armor pieces. All I think you need to provide are black shoes and a light saber. After seeing this costume, I thought to myself, what watches would go well with this outfit?

Along those lines, here are a few watches I think would compliment this costume well. First is the Tokyo Flash Biohazard watch. This unique timepiece is a bit hard to read, but actually offers some cool information. I chose it because the colorful indicators remind me of Darth Vader's instrument panels. The black version is the best as it matches his suit. You may see a lot of Star Trek resemblance in the design of face, but we can have a melding of two worlds. The Biohazard is made by popular trendy Japanese watch maker Tokyo Flash.

Most of these watches are based on the Corum Bubble watch

Corum's obsession with skulls has thus far produced a range of watches unlike anything else. None of these are mere novelty watches. Each has a very high level of quality, with many featuring fully diamond gilded bezels. I am not going to go into detail with each of these watches because there are so many, but if you hover your mouse over the pictures, you'll learn the model name. My favorite is probably the Jolly Roger model that features the bones as watch hands. This is pure Beetlejuice-esque and extremely whimsical. I mean all of these watches have so much personality it is hard to not like them. It only Tim Burton remained just being a good art director, and never moved on to being a terrible movie maker, but I digress.

You'll find three hand watches to chronographs, that have either mechanical or quartz movements. The art work on the watches is really nice with a tasteful and almost cartoon like appeal. These watches aren't for the overly serious of us, and probably won't heighten your status in a board meeting. However, for most other occasions, and Halloween, these are some of the finest offerings from watch maker Corum.

Oh, and you'll find one non Corum watch in the mix below. It is the Krieger Skeleton Skeleton (yes, written twice). This is a rare limited edition from watch maker Krieger which is part of their skeleton watch collection. This usually means that you can view the workings of the watch, but they actually use little bones in the frame of the watch movement. Pretty cool.

Menage Of Corum Skull Watches For Halloween

Halloween is my favorite childhood holiday for good reason; it attempts to imbue fantasy with reality for at least one day. And it is perfectly legitimate to do so. That is why I have been tempted on so many occasions to spend hundreds on fancy costumes.

Likewise, Corum knows how to imbue a healthy amount of fantasy in their watches and make them perfectly legitimate luxury timepieces. Corum has released a number of interesting and high quality watches (many of them limited editions) over the years. For whatever reason, a large number of them have features a skull and other parts of a skeleton. They aren't spooky per se, but they are certainly avant garde and not for everyone. They are certainly for me though, and I love these mostly limited edition watches from Corum.

Most of these watches are based on the Corum Bubble watch, with its tall domed sapphire crystals, and rounded shaped. Really, this are nice watches to hold and wear. You might be put off by their unorthodox looks at first, but you'd be silly not to give them a chance.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Corum Ti-Bridge Tourbillon Watch

Corum just sent me shout-out on this new Tourbillon watch that will be released a few days at Basel 2010. Thus, there will be at least two new tourbillon watches from Corum this year - this Ti-Bridge Tourbillon, and the Admiral's Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon. While I have really only noticed that "Corum key" logo on the Admiral's Cup models, now it shows up on this new Ti-Bridge, as the top of the cage over what appears to be a flying tourbillon. I must admit that it looks pretty cool. The in-house made movement is very thin in the standard horizontal fashion of the timepiece line. The movement should be made of mostly titanium, and looks to have double barrels (for at least 50-60 hours of power reserve), and of course is manually wound.

Like all Ti-Bridge watches the case is going to be beautifully finished. It is really a piece of art and feels so smooth in the hands. You can see all the different forms of titanium in various polishes. The dial looks like it is a screen being framed by the case. A nice "Corum" logo is engraved into bridge on the movement - I like the slightly restyled logo. Looks pretty sharp next to the key emblem.

It is hard to convey just how cool a design the Corum Ti-Bridge watches are. They are fashioney watches, but nice ones at that. What I mean is that they aren't function first designs. You have the hands on the dial but no scales for them. This is a watch that is all about how it looks on the wrist and the beauty of the very small movement.

Functionally the Deep Hull is a very serious diver

Maybe my problem is with the dial. It just feels too much like other subsidiary second day/date Corum Admiral's Cup watches. Just with a bit more lume. Could Corum has done a bit more? Perhaps. Maybe something more original and dive watch in style. Look at the Chanel J12 Marine, that watch feels oceany and marine in theme. This just feels like "big Tony's big Corum watch with sharp angles." I want to like the Deep Hull more than I do, I love the concept, I love dive watches, but I think Corum needs to spend more time on the dial. Inside the watch is a Swiss automatic COSC Chronometer certified movement, with a subsidiary seconds hand, and a day/date complication. I have a feeling that the movement started it's like as a modified Valjoux 7750. Corum calls the movement their calibre CO947

Again, the case, caseback, crown, strap, buckle, and other external features of the watch are great. Even the super thick 12-sided sapphire crystal over the dial is cool. Then again, the dial itself isn't bad or anything, I just feel a desire for a bit more, and I know that Corum can give it to me. The Deep Hull 48 isn't a bad watch, or a bad buy, but I feel that given Corum's new found effort on design and polish, they can do a bit better. Any I have no doubt that they will. With just 500 pieces in titanium, and 255 pieces in black titanium, this limited edition set will set the stage for better and more beautiful Corum dive watches to come in the near future.

Corum Admiral Cup Deep Hull 48 Limited Edition Watch

It is big and it goes down pretty deep. It is also the first real diver's watch from Corum that I can think of (aside from a few dive style Corum Bubble watches). This is the new for 2010 Admiral's Cup Deep Hull 48 watch from Corum, and it is rather interesting, though I have some thoughts on it overall. The Admiral's Cup line has been very good to the brand, and over the last few years Corum has been refining it a lot. More models, lots of variety, and a furtherance of making them look more manly as opposed to colorful (which was the classic look with all the colored flags). Today's Admiral's Cup watches share very little in common with the originals. Here, the flags are barely still there in monochromatic glory. The real standout features of an Admiral's Cup watch is its 12 sided case and bezel.

The Deep Hull 48 is in a 48mm wide titanium case, and is actually weighty for titanium. It is after all, a large watch. The case comes in either brushed titanium or in PVD black coated titanium. Both are limited editions, and I think there is a reason for that. In fact, Corum releases very few Admiral's Cup watches that aren't limited editions. I think it is because many of them are highly niche targeted or experiments. I would suggest that the Deep Hull is an experiment. Corum is testing the design, and I think they want to make a serious case for a Corum dive watch.

Functionally the Deep Hull is a very serious diver. 1000 meters of water resistance. Automatic helium escape valve. Lots of lume, rotating diver's bezel, rubber strap... and of course... cool name. Design wise I like the case, but I feel as though it is missing something. As though after I look it over I am left wondering, "is that it?" As though I want it to have just one more trick up its sleeve.

Monday, December 19, 2011

Corum Admiral’s Cup Challenger 44 Chrono Rubber Limited Edition Watches

I think Corum hit on a great idea with these limited edition Admiral's Cup Challenger 44 watches. The basic idea is simple, to create bold, friendly looking versions of the Admiral's Cup watch, just do it in as much brightly colored rubber as you can. These watches are each two toned and very enjoyable to wear. The steel cases are rubber coated, the strap is rubber, and the bezel is in rubber. Another key element in the design is that they are just two tones with really good contrast. It is like a toy-version of a high-end watch... but certainly not a toy. The watches are available as limited edition pieces. If all goes well, Corum plans on making new colors available each year. For 2011 the available limited edition pieces are in red, blue, and white. Little nod to the US flag? Maybe! Each of the watches will be limited to just 100 pieces.

The watch case is mostly rubber (obviously metal underneath) and 44mm wide. The crown and crown guard are coated in vulcanized rubber. The most non-slip watch ever! The style of the watch really fits the twelve-sided Admiral's Cup case well. The dials are typical Admiral's Cup, and as legible and eye-pleasing as ever. I like that Corum resisted the urge to include an additional color on the dial.

The case design is based on the iconic Admirals

Insertion of the date window is done nicely as it does not require the removal of an hour indicator. It also looks classy with a little polished metal fame. The watch has a subsidiary seconds dial that reminds us of those on many other AC watches. This one is placed a bit close to the center of the watch, but that doesn't bother me at all. I like the design of it as Corum is here able to inject a bit of subtle sportiness. The dial is available in a few tones, seen here silvered or in anthracite. The use of "60" as the 12 o'clock indicator looking all nice in polished metal is a great example of how the Legend is a smooth transition from sport to slick.

Corum uses their caliber CO395 which is a base Swiss ETA 2895 automatic. Corum decorates it and uses a custom rotor. On the steel models the rotor is in steel, while in the gold cased version the rotor is done in 18k gold. The back of the watch reminds of a the Corum Admiral's Cup Deep Hull (and progeny). Corum clearly used that aesthetic in the AC Legend - which is alright with me.

I am really not sure when the last time Corum offered the Admiral's Cup on a bracelet. It has been a while. The Legend 42 comes on a steel or gold bracelet or an alligator strap. my choice is the Corum Admiral's Cup Legend 42 with the silvered face on the steel bracelet. A really great formal or casually nice watch that embodies the spirit of the Admiral's Cup theme with a look you can wear daily. Prices for the Legend 42 start at $3,600.

Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Watch

Baselworld 2011 had a large selection of watch you can wear from brands that normally make watches most people cannot afford. While the ultra-high end certainly had its place, many of the watches on my Baselworld Top 11 watches list were in the "I could feasibly save up for this" range. One of them was this surprise pieces from Corum called the Admiral's Cup Legend 42. It comes in Legend 42 and 38 styles - which refers to the size of the case. Of course the 42 is for me.

The case design is based on the iconic Admirals' Cup collection that Corum has been pushing lately. They have transformed the sport watch into a formal watch - and the metamorphosis feels natural. The case has that 12 sided shape and comes in steel or 18k rose gold. The bezel is polished while much of the rest of the case is brushed. There is just enough sport to the design to make it feel not boring, while much of it is taken from the other Admiral's Cup pieces. The 42mm wide size is smaller than the 44mm wide case that most of the AC watches come in. But the relatively thin bezel and clear face give the piece a good stature.

I love the dial and applaud Corum's ability to make it both decorative and legible. As a nod to the AC collection, the boat pennant flat images are in thin outlines around the side of the watch on the flange ring. The baton hour indicators are polished but don't blend in with the dial. The hands are lume covered and stick out for very good legibility. I think you'll really appreciate the engraved vertical texturing on the dial as well. Not that a few other dial styles are available, and more will come soon I am guessing.

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Corum Admiral’s Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT Watch

I didn't know what to make of this intriguing Corum watch when they showed it to me recently. Part of their higher, higher-end collection of high complication watches, this piece had a number of elements that are thought provoking. At 47mm wide, this watch comes in a few varieties, seen here in aluminum. There will also be a 18k red gold version. Unlike naked aluminum that is prone to degradation overtime, this one is done in an "electroplasma treatment," that I believe protects it and gives it that matte black finish. Aluminum watches aren't as strong as titanium, but are often lighter. F.P. Journe recently auctioned off the first of his new sport collection in aluminum, and the piece went for almost half a million dollars. At 47mm wide, the watch is large but very light and sits comfortably on the wrist. The shiny black alligator strap looks particularly nice and glossy against the matte finish of the case. The movement is also quite interesting, and sometimes I think that the back of the watch is more impressive that the front of it. The movement is done in a series of black tones with a pleasant modern design. The large sized Corum caliber CO397 automatic movement is made to full most of the case and looks impressive through the sapphire caseback display. I particularly like the black perlage polish around the periphery of it next to all the matte surfaces. The movement has a large tourbillon (with Corum's signature key style cage) that is visible through the dial of the watch and goes right through the entire case.

The dial is vertically brushed and done in a champagne color

Now that I have got that off my chest I can tell you that I quite like this new limited edition Corum watch. It doesn't matter to me that it is based on a vintage design, what I care about is that I really like the design. The Grand Precis (precious? precise?) is a 38.5mm wide watch available in 18k red or white gold. The classic looking case has a bit of pizzazz The lines are a nice mixture of straight angles and nice curves. I particularly like how the lugs angle inwards. The dial is a triumph of design goodness from days long past. You know what seals the deal for me? The cross-hairs, those totally make the dial. The dial is vertically brushed and done in a champagne color. The light texture is welcome and I love the bare bones subsidiary seconds dial. Hands are dauphine and not too short. They not only go with the dial nicely and offer excellent legibility, but fit with the theme nicely. Just a great design (from the past). Another element I really like is the movement. It is the Corum CO162 manually wound caliber. It isn't anything super special from a complication standpoint, but I love the design of the bridges. It is isn't exactly modern, but more 1960's futuristic - which is a nice departure from the same movement style and decoration we see all the time.

Corum Grand Precis Watch retro-watch kick endures

The longer the retro-watch kick endures, the longer I have mixed feelings about it. On the one hand many of the pieces bore me into a comatose like state where all I can think about is how the slathering of modern luxury values on vintage tool-pieces feels wholly unsavory. On the other hand, there is a sort of freshness, in the revival of classic designs that are good not because they are classic, but because they were so entirely focused on a smooth blending of both form and function at the time. Rarely do you see a vintage piece with hands which are too short or completely preposterous design features. Purism with a hint of class was the predominant aesthetic choice back a couple of generations ago. In today's sea of retro-themed watches I see the good and the bad. The high-end and wannabe high-brow. To be honest I wish there were less of these watches, and that brands would focus more on having fun and making unique watches rather than playing follow-the-leader after they just finished a speech on how they were the first to do everything and overly using the term "audacious." In fact, my new rule to watch brands (and yes, I not speaking directly to all the European brands) is stop using the term "audacious" or "audacity." I don't care what you think it means or what the dictionary says, but to us native English speakers, it more or less means "rude." So stop proudly claiming how you, your watch makers, and your brand's founders are so unapologetically audacious.

Thursday, December 15, 2011

High-end Spyker automobiles use this finish on their dashboard

Well done however are the Concord C1 main hour and minute hands. While arguably also unimaginative, they are well suited to their purpose, and I particularly like the alternated sections with luminant. On the hour hand, the first segment of the hand is covered with luminant, while the second half of the hand is cut away. The opposite combination exists on the minute hand. Thus when the hands overlap, you can still see the lower hour hand underneath. I do think the minute hand extends to far in the aft section as it covers too much of the hour hand though. The alternation of elements on the hands is a fun idea, not perfectly executed, but appreciated nonetheless. While not knowing the details behind the C1's design, it is hard to accuse Concord or the new CEO of bad taste, or hasty decision making. Viewing the end product of any campaign is not a full telling of the efforts and intentions that went into the process. I therefore cannot say that this is a bad watch, or indicative of future watches to come out of Concord's new rule. I can however say that from a design perspective, this watch fails to live up to what a $10,000 -$20,000 watch should be. No doubt many will be impressed by the Concord C1's bold and assertive looks. Others however will take issue with the many incomplete elements of the watch. The bottom line is that the C1 is not meant to be a cash cow for Concord. It is intended to bring attention to the brand. So that the new styling of the La Scala, Saratoga, and Mariner that I anticipate will arrive soon, will be all the more noticed by the watch loving public. These mainstream watches will be more important to Concord's future, and I can hope they will be given the necessary design treatments.

Concord wanted to emphasize modernity in the C1's design

The subdials and date display on the face form a shape that looks like a clover on its side. While likely unintentional, I cannot get this image out of my head. I just keep seeing that outline of a clover, and I don't feel lucky for this. The other hour and minute registers for the chronograph are pretty standard. The font used for the number is technical looking to say the least, but nothing special. The registers are clean and uncluttered. Using the C1 for timing is probably quite comfortable, but you don't need to spend this kind of money for a good timing instrument. A solid Valjoux 7750 movement based watch can be had for $1000 - $2000. The date window on the C1 really disappoints me. There is this trend to open up the date window to indicate the previous and next days. The only purpose this serves is that the curvature of the large date window functions to help balance out the circle shapes of the three subdials. Symmetry is disturbed when you have three circles and then a square date window. So while this is an interesting solution to the visual balance problem, the execution here is entirely flawed. The placement of the date window is so far to the right, that it is off balance from the relatively central location of the round seconds dial that it attempts to balance. The result is two round shapes along the radius of the watch that are not centered or balanced with the rest of the watch. This distracts the eyes, and prevents the watch face from looking pleasing to the eye. There are two types of background materials to choose from on the C1; carbon fiber or guilloche machined steel. I highly recommend sticking with the machined steel. Carbon fiber is a great material. Light, and strong, it can be shaped in nearly any manner. It serves no functional purpose on a watch face other than to add what is honestly a cheap looking three dimensional effect. This material is completely overused on watch faces these days, and must be carefully implemented to look right. The machined steel on the other hand is much nicer. High-end products often contain machined steel, which has a series of circular pattens caused by a machine polishing. High-end Spyker automobiles use this finish on their dashboard for an excellent look. The machined steel background also does not contrast as harshly with the dials on the face. The problem however, is the non-machined clover shape outline of the subdials does not integrate well with either background as the transition is harsh and unappealing. This is a problem with all watch faces that feature a "layered" look.

Appealing Watches With Sharp Black And Steel Contrasts

Watch makers can have a good time playing with colors and materials. A typical favorite among watch designers is sharp transitions from one material, color or texture to another. This often yields in an interesting look appealing to the eye due to the constant contrasts. Lights appear lighter, and dark colors appear deeper. This is mostly due to the human eye, which seems to be drawn to such complexities of form. A particular favorite of mine is the contrast between matte black and polished steel. The austere look of the black works to immediately enhance the sheen of the polished silver colored steel. This effect is somewhat lost when the black itself is always glossy. Creating a series of sharp contrasts, the eye picks up a number of distinct shapes and patterns that come out of the design and construction of the watch. In effect, you get a much better appreciation of the colors and segmentation of the watch because the overall watch stands out so much more. The three watches pictures from left to right are the Concord Saratoga, Movado Gentry, and Tiffany & Co. Mark T-57. These represent an evolution in the design theme produced in these attractive watches. Starting with the Concord Saratoga that really allowed for the contrasting black and steel to work, which was followed by parent company Movado's Gentry model. This particular model is the Movado Gentry Sport (as it contains a chronograph complication). Last is the recently released Tiffany & Co. Mark T-57. An obvious copy of the Movado Gentry, Tiffany & Co. would probably describe it as a flattering emulation of a successful design, which it is. While very different watches, the visual appeal is similar in each watch. In the event you do not love the watches themselves, you must admit they hold your gaze longer than you expected, as your eyes seem to subconsciously find some cognitive interest in the watches laid out before you.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Concord wanted to emphasize modernity in the C1's design

The C1 is bold, I will give Concord that. The watch seriously stands out due to the contrast of colors and materials. Boldness is good, but after the initial novelty what are you left with? The most notable design element of the watch are the 8 large cube shapes on the bezel. The effect is almost a sunburst pattern, and it stands out well, the problem goes to legibility. It seems as though telling the time is an after thought in this watch. While there are 12 hours to be accounted for, there are 8 large elements that look like indicators. When you try to tell time on this watch, your eyes are going to be drawn to the big 8, which unfortunately serve no other purpose that being symmetrically place around the bezel. This watch wants there to be 8 rather than 12 hours. Thus the cubes detract significantly from the main purpose this accessory is meant to serve. In the cubes are placed large screws. Simple round screws that detract from the angularity of the watch. I have a feeling that these screws will loosen over time. Most other watches that have screws, actually have bolts. Meaning the screw looking bolts are secured on the other end with a nut. I am afraid the C1 owner will be faced with tightening screws occassionaly. Further, for the price, I would expect nicer looking screws, at least something more interesting than what looks to be taken out of a parts bin. Going back to the large cubes, they are plain looking once you get used to them. Either in rubber or steel depending on the watch, they don't really do much for me. Rubber is coming back as a material used in high-end watches, but I cannot be sure why. Sure it does not dent, but it can scuff or even tear. It is not an expensive material, and I would not want to pay the excess of $10,000 for it to be prominently pronounced on the face of a watch. The crown and pushers also have a good deal of rubber in them. The pushers are bold cylinders capped in rubber. And the crown has a mix of rubber with vertical steel lines cut-in to assist with operation of the crown. The pushers and crown are large, perhaps too large. They appear empty compared with the lines and shapes littered in the face of the watch. Why not carbon fiber pushers? In fact, the pushers and crown, while ugly, are probably the most functional part of the watch. The one area that Concord designed to function well probably does, but suffers from looking unimaginative and devoid of character.

Concord C1 Chronograph Watch Design Critique

A good deal of thought goes into the design of most watches. The result must be a blend of attractive visual elements combined with the features necessary for the watch to adequately tell the time. There is no "correct" way to do this, but the skilled designer must take take both the concept of form and function seriously. A watch falling too far to either extreme can be devoid of appeal. Recently, the Concord brand has begun an image re-haul. The Movado owned watch brand was due for revitalization. Having had success with the Concord La Scala and Concord Saratoga lines, nothing serious has come out of Concord in about 10 years. In fact the La Scala and Saratoga watches are wonderful designs, attractive and pleasantly unique. Movado however felt the brand needed to be thrust in a new direction. Newly appointed Concord CEO Vincent Perriard has a background in marketing, not watch design. His enthusiasm is admirable, but he has yet to prove himself as a watch branding whiz. Movado has given him the reigns of Concord. The result of Perriard's appointment is the C1 "Concept" line of watches. Highly publicized, and with first-class marketing rhetoric, the Concord C1 simply fails to impress me. To be honest, I wanted to like this watch. My hope was that gazing at it long enough would allow for the design to grow on me. My focus has been on the Concord C1 Chronograph with the rubber strap and carbon fiber background, which is actually the least attractive of the bunch. The steel bracelet available is attractive, but nothing special, and the basic models without the chronograph complication are far easier to look at.

CONCORD C1 Tourbillon Gravity Defying More Than Just Belief

Last year the luxury watch brand Concord moved to reposition itself as an even more exclusive luxury brand, with innovative, edgy designs and its former lines reduced to one, the new C1. When this spectacularly sportif, hunkily elegant new watch called the Concord C1 was first launched at BaselWorld 2007, last April, the entire production -- a thousand units -- sold out in one day. It seems that Concord is intent on repeating that impressive performance this year with their new offering, the Concord C1 Tourbillon Gravity. One look at this incredible timepiece and its pretty difficult to imagine that they will have any trouble. This new offering does more than just re-enforce the company's ethos: “The Watch. Reconstructed.” the new Concord C1 Tourbillon Gravity effectively makes it a statement of fact. The Tourbillion was first invented in 1801 as a solution to the challenges of gravity. Now in 2008, Concord pays tribute to this horological tradition. An astounding time-measuring instrument, the C1 Tourbillon Gravity features a tourbillon housed outside the dial and outside the case in a revolutionary perpendicular mechanical concept. The position of the tourbillon enables it to serve its initial function: to negate the effects of gravity in a vertical position. Not only does the C1 Tourbillon Gravity achieve this incredible act of defiance with relative ease, it looks damn good doing it too! To say that the look of the watch is unique would be an understatement beyond measure, however, that is exactly what Concord is trying to achieve here: "The Watch. Reconstructed."

Monday, December 12, 2011

Despite being one of the most overly decorative timepieces available

It is no secret that precious jewels have always featured in men's high-end, luxury watches. Yet it seems that these days more and more of these jewels are finding their way onto dials, bezels and bands, as opposed to only being incorporated in the complicated movements that power these incredible timepieces. One brand that has recently taken this new trend to the next level is Concord, with their new C1 Chronograph. The watch features a 44mm white gold case, standing 16.70mm tall and is set with enough diamonds (184 to be exact, or a cool 2.4 carats) to ensure that anyone who tries to look directly at the dial risks potential permanent blindness. However, the enhancement of the original C1 does not stop there, not by a long shot! A protective ring in white gold, fixed laterally by 7 self-blocking screws is enhanced by eight decorative elements straddling the bezel. These bastions protect a spectacular 3.30 mm thick sapphire crystal, which literally emerges from the case and displays a ruthenium dial set with 259 diamonds, 0.8 ct and its distinctive Concord seconds disk. End result, a dial literally covered in bling. Even the band doesn't escape this "special" treatment, the black rubber strap with a white gold folding clasp is set with 72 diamonds or 0.6 ct. You almost get the feeling looking at the picture of this watch that is more diamond than anything else, you might even go as far to say as its not really a timepiece at all but rather a very large, very expensive piece of jewellery. Which leads to the next question. What on earth were Concord thinking? There is certainly an arguement for improving the aesthetics of a watch, even to the point of adding diamonds. Rolex has been doing it quite successfully (and subtley) for a number of years with their diamond dials which feature diamonds on the hour markers. Yet, this piece here screams excess and poor taste. Its almost like Concord is saying "well, we couldn't make a good looking watch, so we'll just cover it in diamonds and hope it distracts attention from the less desirable features." However, nothing could be further from the truth. The C1 series features sensational, rugged looking timepieces which truly look fantastic on any wrist. Why this sort of treatment is necessary, this author will never know!

Computer renditions of the Concord C1 QuantumGravity watch

The Concord marketing material is intentionally obfuscatory. The people writing it don't really even know what they are saying. They just see what appears to be a complex movement and talk about how it has been delivered from "above." In reality it is all cosmetic. With the new Concord C1 you are - more than any watch I can recall - paying an extreme premium for an image. An image I don't really care for. Take this most recent example. I want you to read the following marketing statement about the QuantumGravity watch. Then tell me what the hell the movement does that is new, interesting or important. Oh, and remember, Concord didn't do anything. It is all the watch movement company BNB Concepts that has actually done the work Did that make a lot of sense to you? I'll tell you what the movement does that is supposed to be appealing. The tourbillon escapement spins on two axis points. That is merely an improvement of adding another axis, but functionally doesn't really do anything else but make it a bit more interesting to look at. There are plenty of other more complex tourbillon movements out there. The rest of the movement? Those spokes, and support bars? Nothing. Merely for show. Cosmetic nothingness

Concord C1 QuantumGravity Movement And Whatever Upcoming Watch

My problems with Concord all started with the "revitalization" of the brand a few years ago when the Concord C1 watch line was released. I wrote this article discussing how (and why) I didn't care for the design of the C1. The brand keeps coming out with new watches all based on the C1, some more hideous that others. Then came out the vertically aligned tourbillon watch, and most recently, the tourbillon version of the Concord C1 will be supplemented with this new movement, the C1 QuantumGravity - and I am thoroughly annoyed by it. It is funny, because other watches and watch companies do a lot of the same things that Concord is doing, but the marketing and attitude at Concord irks me the most. Namely, it is over-hyping and creating confusion around the new products that they release. Nothing about Concord's new watches impresses me. There is really nothing to impress anyone. They want you to think they have created the next great watch, but they haven't. They have just done the same thing, that other companies have done a number of times before, and made it look a little bit different. Let's put it this way, nothing Concord has released is new or useful, despite how desperately they want their marketing materials to convince you otherwise.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Concord Watches Ride The Hype Machine

Something positive first. I give credit to Concord, or whoever Concord is hiring for being creative. Though I question the effectiveness of it all. I have to first pull myself aside and consider my own position in the watch world. Someone in the know, someone who sees most of what comes out. So consider this a biased opinion by someone who might know what they are talking about. A bit of history - Concord is owned by the Movado group, and couple of years ago it was likely decided that because the brand was not pulling its weight, they would attempt to revitalize the brand into a different kind of manly high end watch. For this they repositioned the brand as a niche product maker and hired a new president in 2006, Vincent Perriard. Since then Concord has released one watch, the C1 - In a bunch of different flavors. I've never been quiet about the fact that I don't like the design of the Concord C1. I've also been pretty straight forward on how I feel about their new QuantumGravity watch with its BNB Concepts based movement. Now, as for the design, if you are taken by it, then please enjoy it in good health, it is not my thing at all. The whole thing with Concord however is a lot of hype. The issue of hype is interesting. I call it that, Concord probably calls it "marketing dollars well spent." Never have I seen so much effort in trying to justify a design direction. I will tell you what I mean. Lets start with the new website dedicated to BNB Concepts' design of the QuantumGravity movement and watch seen here. A bunch of guys sitting around drawing a watch with wax models, and some computer rendering images is not exactly the stuff of legend. Concord wants you to think that they are working on the greatest time telling device ever. It really isn't, basically we are getting highly cosmetically enhanced watches that we have seen before. BNB Concepts is a popular high end watch movement maker that basically does all the work. It looks OK, but come on... stop telling me to look at a cottage and telling me it is a mansion.

coming to your words about the QuantumGravity

Before reading his remarks, I want to stress a single fact. I don't feel as though I have attacked the dedication, manpower, or vision of the brand - which is what Mr. Perriard refers to in a few instances. I further don't doubt the uniqueness of its specific complications in a technical sense. Rather, I sometimes don't feel as though the complications, on a practical side, are unique enough that there should be as much hoopla surrounding them (as their ill conceived marketing language would suggest). For me it is all about the end result, and as a critic and member of the watch press I am allowed to provide my commentary. So in the end, I say to Concord that I have no doubts about your significant status in the watch world, your watch making process, skilled team, or dedication to being different. I do however find myself not necessarily being taken by the end result of your efforts. No where does it say that if you put a lot of effort into something, am I supposed to like it. Your designs are getting better, which I will admit. Rational people have reasonable differences of opinion, so allow me to dissent with you on occasion. Mr. Perriard is a nice guy, so please see his comments below

With Kindest Regards, Vincent Perriard

Readers, take attention as you will below read words straight from the honorable Mr. Vincent Perriard, President of Concord Watches. I must first salute Mr Perriard on his incredible penchant for thumb typing (as I mentioned to him as well), for the below letter was sent from the - obviously well used - keyboard of his BlackBerry phone. The second they were able to place a full keyboard on a phone, the world changed. Mr. Perriard satisfied his duty as president of an honorable watch brand by responding to a long series of less-than-flattering articles that I have written about the modern line of Concord watches. Modern being since after their parent company Movado, felt it was necessary to shake things up, and re-brand...the brand. In most recent response to my article on Luxist.com on March 23, regarding the new C1 QuantumGravity watch, Mr. Perriard defends his brand. This is exactly what he should be doing sitting at the helm of the company, and as he asked me politely to post his letter (with a few spelling mistakes that I corrected. Thumb typing is not without its hazards).

Friday, December 9, 2011

Concord C1 Radar Watch

I finally figured out who this watch is good for! The Scarecrow. On good days it can be the Wizard of Oz scarecrow, on bad days, the one from Batman. Why that character? Well the "technofabric" strap of the watch just seems to match the burlap sack... mask that the scarecrow wears. Why is this lately iteration of the Concord C1 called the Radar? Your guess it as good as mine, but this is one of Concord's most noble attempts at making the C1 design work. Because almost all the technology exists in some form or another already, the Nokia Eco Sensor Concept is not that far off from reality. Notice that it can be worn in several ways, but one of them is a a watch, on the wrist. That is the most exciting part of course. So while a digital computer watch is not going to steal the hearts of die hard mechanical watch enthusiasts, it is a sign of things to come. Even the vast amount of functionality that the Nokia Eco Sensor provides will seem limited in the years to come as watches are as well connected as any computer is today.

Is A Digital Watch You Want to Wear

You might be asking yourself what the point of the Nokia Eco Sensor Concept is all about. Don't confuse yourself with thinking that this is just another pointless "do it all device." Far from it, it encapsulates the tools each person will need and come to expect. As mobile phones become a more permanent part of our overall daily "luggage," so are the other functions those devices provide. Even now, people are becoming accustomed to their phones providing e-mail, text messaging, cameras, and Internet navigation. A phone that is just a phone does not cut it anymore. Soon, we will come to except a phone to tell us what the weather is going to be like, what our blood pressure is, and of course we want it to fit on our wrist. The detachable quality of a mobile phone is what makes them something disconnected enough to be forgotten or under utilized. Like the watches we wear today, a mobile device on your wrist will truly become part of every ensemble. It will function much like today's mobile phones as a device on your wrist is close enough to your hand, it will be the same action, but it will look like our hand it empty, and we will of course still use wireless headset's like today's Bluetooth headsets. Because almost all the technology exists in some form or another already, the Nokia Eco Sensor Concept is not that far off from reality. Notice that it can be worn in several ways, but one of them is a a watch, on the wrist. That is the most exciting part of course. So while a digital computer watch is not going to steal the hearts of die hard mechanical watch enthusiasts, it is a sign of things to come. Even the vast amount of functionality that the Nokia Eco Sensor provides will seem limited in the years to come as watches are as well connected as any computer is today.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

You might be asking yourself what the point of the Nokia Eco Sensor Concept

The detachable quality of a mobile phone is what makes them something disconnected enough to be forgotten or under utilized. Like the watches we wear today, a mobile device on your wrist will truly become part of every ensemble. It will function much like today's mobile phones as a device on your wrist is close enough to your hand, it will be the same action, but it will look like our hand it empty, and we will of course still use wireless headset's like today's Bluetooth headsets. Because almost all the technology exists in some form or another already, the Nokia Eco Sensor Concept is not that far off from reality. Notice that it can be worn in several ways, but one of them is a a watch, on the wrist. That is the most exciting part of course. So while a digital computer watch is not going to steal the hearts of die hard mechanical watch enthusiasts, it is a sign of things to come. Even the vast amount of functionality that the Nokia Eco Sensor provides will seem limited in the years to come as watches are as well connected as any computer is today.

Future Watch Tech Revealed: Nokia Eco Sesnor Concept Is A Digital Watch

We usually stay away from far-fetched tech concepts, because it is never a good idea to make one salivate with news of something that might never become attainable. In this instance however, it is probably safe to say that such a device is within our grasp in the next ten years max. The Nokia Eco Sensor Concept brings about the functionality that Star Trek and all science fiction fans have desperately awaited. Namely, a convergence device that functions as a watch, communication device, health monitor, and environmental senor, all in a cool looking touch screen form factor. While it is unclear whether this is a functioning concept, it uses available technology in realistic ways. From a time telling standpoint, the Eco Sensor merely utilizes available digital technology with GPS to tell the time in the right place. It uses various on board sensors along with the GPS to determine environmental conditions. There are plenty of watches today that use this technology, such as Suunto, which makes amazing "wrist-top computers" combining a watch, compass, altimeter, thermometer, and barometer, all in a neat and attractive little package. Further, companies like Suunto, among others, have been able to implement a number of sensors, such as heart rate, and body heat monitors into a watch. Thus, most all the technology that makes the Nokia Eco Sensor desirable is already in watch form in some way or another.

The Watch LCD Revolution Is On The Horizon

This may look like a pretty average watch, but in actuality it represents years of effort. This is one solid circular LCD (liquid crystal display) screen, something that is very hard to do. It also displays 262,000 colors, unlike the monochromatic watch LCDs that you are used to. In the past, all LCD panels needed to be square or rectangular. For years, efforts have been made to give LCD screens more organic shapes, but the nature of their construction made this almost impossible. That left us with boring little screens on our Casio watches. Color LCD panels are nothing new, but there is little to no color LCD penetration on watch displays. This is due to the necessity for backlighting, which would require frequent battery changes or charging. New technologies are changing this, and what you see is a clear representation of what we can come to expect in the upcoming years. On that note, new types of LCD (and of course OLED; organic light emitting diode) require less or no backlighting at all, which increases the battery life. Further, it is worth noting that because there are TFT (Trans reflective) displays, they have a sharp yet wide viewing angle. Some of you might be turned off at the thought of having to charge a watch. Think of it this way, how much more work is it to charge a watch than it is to wind a manual watch, or put an automatic watch on a winder when not worn. To an extent, an exciting watch can sometimes have a temporal cost of ownership.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Canadian Veldini will certainly evoke an audible "cool"

The watch itself has style elements from all over the place, yet there is nothing out there that looks like it. The shape of the case looks like a Bell & Ross BR-01 with a gun trigger, though the strap is connected from the bottom, without lugs, but rather bolted to the case. This is needed for the slide out module to work well. The face is quite sparse and likely large. Clarify will be good, but I would have liked to see some more functionality. A jet-setting spy could use some additional functions. GMT maybe? A chronograph? That isn't too much to ask for is it? The images probably don't do the watch too much justice. I look forward to seeing one in the flesh for a real determination of how well it would go with a tuxedo. Now here is the odd part. The whole idea of a "spy" watch is to be stealthy. James Bond's toys were so cool because they were disguised. Otherwise the villains would have just stripped them off him each time he got caught. The Veldini Q watch doesn't exactly hide the fact of what it is. Rather it embraces it. If I were a villain, it would be the first thing I look out for. So while the watch will function as a cool wearable pocket knife, it isn't exactly going to blend in too much. And honestly, were is my figgin' laser cutter? I don't care if I have to attach the watch to a car battery that I wear on my back, I want my spy watch to shoot laser beams! We will have to wait a bit to see this watch in action, but it looks promising so far. Lets hope that Veldini provides a nice instructional video on how to use the diamond tipped glass cutter and lock pick. Otherwise I am going to be caught in some very compromising situations while practicing.

Three Versions For The Spy In All Of Us

So lets talk about what these watches will do, as that is certainly the main attraction. Each of the different types (i.e., Spy, Outdoor, and Everyday) has a different tool card that slides out of the watch. Feasibly, you could have one watch and three different interchangeable tool cards. Though it is unclear whether the watches will be sold in this way. The cards are very similar to the Victorinox SwissCard that came about a while ago. That was a credit card shaped pocket tool, with various implements that either folded out of it or detached. It is basically a flat pocket knife with 13 tools in it. Victorinox proved that you could make functional device that was flat, but they never stuck it into a watch, even though they make a line of Swiss Army branded watches. Note to Victorinox, make pocket knife watches. The Veldini Q takes this same approach with a smaller module that detaches from the watch itself (that other than telling time has no tools built in it). Ideally, the tools on the modules are going to be smooth operating and at least as hardy what Victorinox produces (which is high quality). The release mechanism on the watch is really cool and shaped like the hammer on a pistol. You pull back on the hammer with your thumb to eject the tool card; nifty. Here are the tools that you can get. Q Everyday: flat-head screwdriver, bottle opener, refillable slide-out pen, magnifying class, and serrated knife. Q Outdoor; flat-head screwdriver, file, flint stick (for starting fires), compass, and serrated knife. Q Spy; diamond tipped glass cutter, philips head screwdriver, slide-out lock pick, magnifying glass, and straight edged knife. Pretty cool, but I would want them all.

High Quality Spy Gadget “Q” Watches From Veldini To Arrive Soon

No one that likes watches doesn't like cool gadgets. Gadgets are little morsels of functional goodness. Items designed specifically for the purpose of doing one or more things (aside from sitting there). Gadgets can be tools, but can also be so much more. So if you don't like cool gadgets, then stop reading. But if you do, then this new line of products from Canadian Veldini will certainly evoke an audible "cool" from you. Do you remember playing with spy toys as a kid? Those plastic things that you wished came in professional quality? Well I remember, and I think most of the real stuff was reserved for the CIA, and alike agencies. And now, when I am (publicly) too old to play with toys, comes Veldini with its Q watches. Three models are due for release, the Q; Outdoor, Spy, and Everyday. Further the watches will come in three materials, sterling Silver, yellow gold, and rose gold. Prices depend on the material used and will range from $2,000 to $15,000 dollars.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Typically concept phone/watch combinations are intriguing

The phone unit itself is what is of most interest. The watch part of it is pretty simple, but the design has been proven a few times. You have no seconds, just the hour and minute, which are stacked on top of one another. Mod watches companies such as (now deceased) Ventura, and others, have proven this to not only be attractive, but also highly legible. Not for those of us who demand an analog watch, but there is a time and a place for watches like this. The folding design of the phone makes a lot of sense. We have passed the point where we can make tinny little phones. The two things stopping us from making phones smaller is the fact that a human needs to comfortably use it, and the fact that it needs a battery. Sure this Triple phone will need to be charged daily, but so do most phones. Taking generously from popular phone designs from Motorola (RAZR), and Sanyo, among others, the Triple CellPhone watch is a nice amalgamation of some of today (and yesterday's) best phone design from an aesthetic standpoint. Usability does not look hampered by its design, and it is up to the software and people to make it function properly. I would say that the Triple Watch CellPhone (yes I keep mixing up the name because it is written in several ways in several places, and is not a true "cell" phone) is perfectly usable and comfortable from an ergonomics standpoint. There really isn't too much more to say while the phone is in concept phase. As I mentioned before, we totally have the ability to produce this phone, and the fact that the designer, Manon Maneenawa was given an award of $10,000 for the design (even if he was a fashion designer) must mean that some people are more than simply interested in producing this interesting phone and timepiece.

Triple Watch Mobile Phone Concept By Manon Maneenawa

Typically concept phone/watch combinations are intriguing, but so far away from practicality or the limits of current technology that they are only worth a brief glance. Then there are those things that actually look as though they could work with what we have today. This is why I am excited about the Triple Phone Watch concept. In a nutshell, the device is a folding phone that fits on a wrist strap. When the phone is folded, a smaller anterior screen displays the time. To use the phone, the wear slips out the phone and unfolds it. A concern immediately appears, but I think is easily dismissed. You can surmise that because the phone separates from the wrist strap, they can easily become lost from one another. However, mobile phones aren't typically latched to anything anyways, so these phones could be just as easy to lose as any other. Second, if you lost the wrist strap, it doesn't look like something that would be too expensive to replace anyway. Thus, I don't think there is too much of a risk of loss, and there must be some way of securing the phone into the wrist strap harness. No big deal there.

Awesome Bracelet Integrated LED Concept Watch

Just to be clear, this is a concept, so it might never reach the light of retail day. But it really should, aside from some technical hurdles that need to be crossed. Japanese Designer Hironao Tsuboi at 100% Design has imagined this minimalist LED watch, that isn't quite all that minimalist in look, merely function. The minimalist element comes in as the watch only shows the time in minutes and hours Philippe Starck style. The time telling element is neatly integrated into the dark colored metal (either PVD, gun metal, or some other steel darkening technique). That is the really cool part, but it looks as though you have merely a masculine looking bracelet on, that happens to tell the time. If you look at the numbers, they are brightly lit LED lights behind a few segments. The brightness is very power intensive, and I don't see a place for a lot of battery power. This is the main element that will need to be worked on if this watch ever makes it to production. There are several "solutions" to this quandary, but no one asked my opinion. Best to have the watch in an off state until turned on by the user either via button or flick of the wrist (as Casio does on some watches with its illumination system).Otherwise some power generation system in the watch itself will have to do, but I digress.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Pink Panther watch concept their previous concept design

The dial color could be a dark brown (that matches gold well), black, or any other color. It looks nice being a bit bare. I find the font that Virtual Ideas used for the numerals to be interesting. A technical, almost computer generated font that you'd expect to see on a receipt print out. It makes the counting of time more mathematical, or rather the watch look more like an instrument. The hands are smaller but useful. They might stand for some improvement so as to be more clear . They look to be lume covered, so I hope the numerals on the dial are as well. Virtual Ideas designs concepts such as this show watch companies what they can do. As fresh ideas are often better than a stale design department (many of you out there can attest to that). Whenever I see their designs I wonder to myself what brands the looks best fit with. While Virtual Ideas is often inclined to create highly luxurious creations, it is often the fact that such designs are remarkable good at being "mainstreamed." Good watch designs can design for all timepiece levels. A common theme in all their designs is the ability to innovatively display the indication of time. This is the goal for many watch makers actually, and I applaud and appreciate their efforts (and the results). Big Time fits directly into this meme. Although they aren't the first to produce the hands on rail system, they did so a novel way, with attractive results. I can easily see myself putting on a watch like this and grinning at the results. Very cool.

Virtual Ideas “Big Time” Watch Concept

Allow me to present you with another watch concept from Switzerland based Virtual Ideas, a design firm that creates watches for established watch companies (a lot of the time large companies rely on smaller, independent design firms when it comes to watch design. They then figure out how to produce it, market it, and then sell it). The first concept I shared with you (a while back) was the Pink Panther watch concept. The concept watch here is called "Big Time." You can see the thematic similarity to their previous concept design. Big Time is a larger, square shaped watch with dimensions that should be in the 50mm wide and 45mm tall range. The dial itself is perfectly square, but as you can see there is an interesting rubber guard/bumper around the crown. The case is curved a bit and looks nice in rose gold. You can see the sharp faceting around the edges. Lugs are set widely apart but cut short and sharp for a technical feel. They also help preserve the angularity of the design. You see more faceting around the edges of the sapphire crystal.The design looks good with the rubber strap, but would also look good with a reptile strap. All the action of course is in the dial - one that has a unique way of telling the time. The face is separated into two areas. Once for the hours (left), and one for the minutes (right). As the hand moves vertically along the dial, it actually turns when it comes to the top or bottom. Thus each side of the path is utilized. These paths are also called "rails" by Virtual Ideas. Although this watch is a concept, this style of telling the time has been done before. It was actually quite a coincidence, because although Virtual Ideas did not base their design around Italian Carlo Ferrara watches, the manner of telling the time is the same. Carlo Ferrara was able to do it with a modified ETA 2892A2 movement, so the complication has bee done before.

Virtual Ideas “Toxic” Linear Time Watch Concept

With linear time indicators that resemble syringes, the "Toxic" watch concept creation by Swiss Virtual Ideas is another neat idea by the watch design firm. Showing time on linear scales means that an indicator moves across a scale and then jumps back once it reaches the end. Look closely and you can see a telescopic arm that moves across the dial with a red strip for the indicator. It moves like a vial filling up or emptying at the arm extends and pushes in the indicator. It would have been cool for it too look like one side of the indicator was filling with a colored liquid. The telescopic arm would be difficult to manufacture but by no means impossible. I like how Virtual Ideas has pushed the envelope of watch engineering limits, but still within the range of possibility. Nevertheless, a watch like this would cost a lot. Recently, I discussed the Urwerk King Cobra watch with a similar liner time concept. The Toxic watch concept features a horizontally long rectangular case with soft curved edges on the top and bottom, with sharped curves on the right and left side of the watch. The case would ideally be made in some satin finished metal. You can see the perlage polish on the inside of the dial - that would require a series of expensive to manufacture sapphire crystals. The Toxic watch displays just the minutes and hours, and nicely indicates what scale does what with a clear "H" or "M" next to the scales. While a watch like this is anything but ordinary, it actually succeeds in not being that hard to read, I dig it. Though I would also be a bit apprehensive of a needle sticking out of it!

Sunday, December 4, 2011

YES Watches Offer Celestial Time Telling At A Glance

I must say that the first time I saw the YES watch, I was confused and did not know what to make of it. I read the long list of features it had and all the information it was able to provide and was instantly perplexed. I certainly believed all the promised information was there, but I was not convinced that it would be easy to use or understandable. I based this conclusion on my experience with other "information rich" watches, but I was wrong. Take the slide-rule available on certain Breitling watches. You practically need a user guide and training course on how to use that thing. Sure you can calculate airplane fuel consumption, if you know how. The YES watches aren't as complex as their rich feature list would have you believe. The computer inside makes things simpler than you'd think, and the information displayed right on the face is what you need to know the most. For a full list of YES watch features, visit the YES Watch homepage here. What I will talk about are those features I find most interesting and useful. Although you can get buried in the functions, setting them is simple enough, and with a slight learning curve, you can easily figure out how to almost anything you'd like to with the yes watch easily.

Linde Werdelin Elemental or Two Timer watch

The Linde Werdelin is one of the more beautifully designed devices of its type. Sure there are Suunto and Casio watches that has similar sensors, and Polar or Suunto watches can give you heart rate information, the Land Instrument does so in a fashionably and higher quality manner. The Land Instrument is crafted from high grade anodized aluminum (in steel tone, red, or black), and sits atop Linde Werdelin watches, which themselves are sight to behold. Because the Land Instrument and Linde Werdelin watches are constructed from high grade aluminum they are deceptively light. For many people, there is a deep sense of appreciation in adorning something which is functional yet enjoys a high degree of design pedigree. The Land Instrument is just such a product and enjoys being a winner of the Red Dot design award. The Land Instrument can be purchased alone for about $2000 (depending on exchange rates, or together with a Linde Werdelin Elemental or Two Timer watch, which acts as a cradle for the Land Instrument to be worn on the wrist. Together with a watch, the two items are between $4000-$5000. Not cheap, but another of those enviable watches that people will want to know about. Do check out the product page as linked above to read about this impressive watch and piece of personal sensorship.

Sensors included in the Land Instrument are a baromete

Sensors included in the Land Instrument are a barometer, altimeter, internal and external temperature sensor (for body heat and outside temperature), digital compass, and an external heart rate monitor. Using the heart rate monitor in combination with other data such as rate of climb and body dynamics, the Land Instrument gives you an indication of burned calories, which is nice. Such technology has been shown to be accurate to the degree of giving you an idea of when you are at peak exertion levels. An actual indication of calories expended is a complex analysis based on many specific factors such as one's basal metabolism, weight, fitness level, and personal chemistry. While no out of-the-box solution will tell you precise calorie burning data, it is good to have as an estimate for exercise purposes. Using the internal software (which is user upgradeable) and collected data through the sensors, the Land Instrument will forecast whether. calculate rates of decline and ascent, show you a graph of your climb, and inform you when climate levels are dangerous, such as storm coming, or a frost-bite warning. While not all of these features will be essential for everyday adventurers, they are certainly nice to have. Most people are charmingly comforted by knowing their watches and gadgets can survive extreme conditions and prove useful in everyday situations.

Friday, December 2, 2011

Linde Werdelin Land Instrument Watch: Personal Sensorship

Recently, ablogtoread.com covered the Nokia Eco Sensor Concept, a conceptual device brimming with sensors, connectivity and functionality. The highlight of the Nokia Eco Sensor was it's ability to monitor one's surroundings and convert that information into something relevant to the wearer's health (i.e. "warning high levels of carbon dioxide detected!"). The Nokia Eco Sensor though very interesting, was still just a concept, as there was no working model. The Linde Werdelin Land Instrument is no mere concept, and it delivers a heap of promised features. The Linde Werdelin Land Instrument is part of Linde Werdelin's Biformeter (silly to pronounce) line of products, and is designed for skiing and cold weather mountain climbing and exploration. Excursions which scale tall cold environs require a good deal of environmental measuring to ensure human survivability. In extremely cold temperature, body parts can freeze in moments when exposed to the air. Further, one must monitor their exhaustion as they cannot merely shed clothes to cool off or relax. This is where a device like the land instrument comes in. By utilizing various environmental sensors, a heart rate monitor, and internal software, it can tell more lots of useful information about your body's condition and what are about to face.

Very Rare Linde Werdelin Land Instrument Available

Back in December I raved about the very well-done Linde Werdelin Land Instrument. The curious watch computer was more than a futuristic digital module on your wrist. It was a senor laden array of features and important data. British Linde Werdelin created the Land Instrument to fit on top of its existing watch line, literally. The Land Instrument can be used alone, on its own watch strap, or mounted right on top of a Linde Werdelin Biformeter watch. Many claim that the Liden Werdelin Land Instrument is ahead of it's time, but I claim that if it "can be done," then do it. Linde Werdelin has done more than repackage what other computerized watch makers such as Suunto have done in a nicer and more luxurious package. The Land Instrument is actually a combination of senors and computational output. Among other things, the device has an internal compass, thermometer, altimeter, barometer, and hearth rate monitor. The idea is to measure body conditions as well as climate conditions. The Land Instrument updates readings every couple of seconds, and the internal computer predicts upcoming events such as frost bite, avalanches, rain, storms, and other important information. This preventative data, along with information on rates of climbing ascent and descent make for a dynamic and highly useful device. The Land Instrument module charges easily and connects to a computer for better analysis of stored data. All this is housed in a very rugged steel case in the standard color, or a red or black version. Whether you need to use the Linde Werdelin for navigation, fitness, or safety, it is an undeniable appealing computer watch device. These are very limited watches in terms of production, being very hard to find. For the right lucky person, there is one available on eBay now .

Suunto Core Line Is Anything But Middlestream Wrist Computer

Last year Sunnto released the Core series of watches, attempting to merge style with Sunnto's almost legendary mixture of features and functions in what they call "wristop computers." The Core line does a great job of combining the functions that Suunto is known for. You get an altimeter (measuring altitude), barometer (barometric pressure for weather status and predictions), thermometer, digital compass, depth meter (up to 30 meters), sunrise and sunset times, and of course all the other features you would expect such as a timer, stopwatch, alarms, full calendar, and dual times. You might be saying to yourself, "sure it can do all that, but I'll never remember how to use it or access all that information." This is a valid concern, but to be honest, my experience with Suunto watches (I do own one) is that they are incredibly logical to use. The 5 available buttons on the case make it so that you don't need to frequently dive through menus or function trees to get what you want. If I have to mess with a watch for too long to figure it out, I stop wearing it. Actually you can read all about the Sunnto Core's features right here from Suunto themselves (and its not even in Finnish). Suunto gave the Core line many styles with steel, rubber, or leather strap options. This is good news for those who desire the available features, but don't want their watch giving off too much of an "outdoorsy" look. There are actually 6 different models at this time, with more likely to come. Unlike some of the previous Suunto watches, the Core, while still large, has a much cleaner look. The Vector range that is similar to it made wearers look like they were right about to go for a dive. The Core range is decidedly more metropolitan, and fares well in urban jungle along with on a trail, underwater, or on a slope.