Heritage chic: Work-wear brands capitalize on Made-In-USA cachet

Tom Sega missed the hunting opener for the first time in 30 years in November, but you won't hear him complaining. Instead of hunkering down in a deer stand, the president of Minnesota-based Duluth Pack was standing in the Barneys New York flagship store in Manhattan, promoting a new line of canvas bags designed specifically for the iconic luxury retailer. The 128-year old Duluth Pack built its name making canoe packs and other gear for the rugged wilderness, but it is riding a new wave of popularity from style-conscious urbanites who have a taste for Made in the USA craftsmanship. "There's a lot of buzz around 'heritage' right now," said Sega, who took over the slumping company in 2007 and has restored it to profitability. "We've made a conscious decision to ride that horse for everything it's worth, because we can truly claim it." Duluth Pack and a host of other Minnesota workhorse brands are hitting the high end. Red Wing Shoes are now carried in Brooks Brothers and Nordstrom. St. Paul's J.W. Hulme's briefcases and women's handbags also can be found in Barneys. Bemidji Woolen Mills, Frost River and Pierrepont Hicks have made inroads around the country, most notably in New York. "Minnesota is exporting cool," said Michael Williams, a New York-based men's apparel marketer and expert in the "heritage brands" trend. His blog, "A Continuous Lean," often features Minnesota companies. "I don't know what's in the water in Minnesota, but these companies have stayed true to their roots. That's something fairly rare." Their success comes from a convergence of factors, Williams said. The recession caused many consumers to rethink their throwaway lifestyles and to invest in things that last. The shop-local movement helped raise awareness of organic food and locally made goods. And the rugged-but-tailored look became fashionable. "Being patriotic and being 'Made in the USA' used to be a truck driver thing," Williams said. "Now all these creative young people are doing it. That's a seismic shift." Men's retail in general has weathered the economic downturn better than women's apparel stores. Men shop with purpose, not as an indulgence, and more are shopping for themselves, according to NPD Group. During the thick of the recession in 2009, a survey of wealthy households by the American Affluence Research Center found that 23 percent of men said they hadn't reduced spending, compared with 14 percent of women. Coach, Hermes, Ralph Lauren and J. Crew recently have opened upscale men's-only stores. Duluth Pack is trying to ride that wave. At the century-old headquarters and factory in Duluth, Minn., six sewing stations have been added to handle an order for 5,100 Safari duffels, which must be shipped out by March 1 to an East Coast retailer the company wouldn't name. "We're hustling," said Sue Oja, a 20-year Duluth Pack veteran, with stacks of the company's signature olive-drab fabric surrounding her. It's Duluth Pack's single largest order, and it comes on top of 11 percent growth last year. Aside from the collaboration with Barneys, Duluth Pack is making bags for Urban Outfitters and for Vancouver-based editor and fashion curator Ryan Willms' Inventory. The company has been featured in GQ, Outside, Redbook and Country Living magazines. A child's pack sells for $65, a utility backpack for $165 and a leather duffel for $325. A Barneys exclusive leather and canvas Wanderer Pack goes for $595. "We've gone from survival mode the first couple of years to total growth mode," said Sega, who expects to add to his 35-person production crew this year.